Colombia has changed in ways I never could have imagined when I first visited 21 years ago. Back then, the country was still deep in conflict, and much of it was off-limits to travellers. Violence linked to the drug trade and guerrilla warfare shaped everyday life, and places now thriving with tourism were simply too dangerous to visit. Having worked in security and risk management for years, I have seen firsthand how conflict impacts communities and how difficult it is to rebuild. That is why initiatives like Coca to Cacao stand out to me. They are not just about economic change. They are about transformation on a human level.
For decades, Colombia’s rural communities were trapped in a cycle of violence fuelled by the illicit coca trade. Now, ex-FARC combatants who once relied on coca cultivation are finding new livelihoods in cacao farming, turning a symbol of war into one of peace. And tourism is playing a growing role in supporting this shift.
A Shift from Conflict to Cultivation
The 2016 peace agreement between the Colombian government and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) ended over 50 years of conflict, but peace alone does not put food on the table. Thousands of former guerrilla fighters suddenly found themselves in need of legal livelihoods. Many had spent years in remote jungles, with coca farming as one of their only economic options. But with the war over, the challenge became clear: how to reintegrate ex-combatants into society while also providing alternatives for rural farmers who had long been caught in the crossfire.
One of the most promising solutions has been cacao—the raw material for chocolate. Unlike coca, which ties communities to violent drug networks, cacao offers a legitimate, profitable, and socially accepted livelihood. Recognising this, government programmes, NGOs, and private enterprises launched the Coca to Cacao Initiative, providing training, resources, and market access to former FARC members willing to transition.
This initiative is particularly interesting to me because, after years of working in security, I transitioned into the travel industry myself. I founded Offbeat Horizons to connect travellers with experiences that go beyond the surface, focusing on adventure, culture, and impact. I have always believed that travel can be a force for good, and seeing how tourism is now helping former conflict zones in Colombia only reinforces that.
From Guerrillas to Growers: The Training Process
The Coca to Cacao Initiative focuses on agricultural education, teaching ex-combatants and rural farmers how to cultivate and fertilise cacao sustainably. Many participants have little experience with legal farming, so the programme covers essential skills, including: • Organic fertilisation techniques to improve soil health and yield. • Post-harvest processing to increase the quality and value of their cacao beans. • Market connections to ensure fair trade opportunities and partnerships with chocolatiers.
These skills not only provide an alternative income source but also empower communities that were once isolated by war.
Tourism: A Game-Changer for Cacao Farmers
While cacao farming provides long-term economic stability, tourism offers an immediate boost to these communities by creating jobs and generating additional income. Travellers are increasingly seeking authentic, socially responsible experiences, and Colombia’s former conflict zones are becoming unexpected destinations for those eager to witness the country’s transformation firsthand.
Several ways in which tourism can support the Coca to Cacao Initiative include: • Cacao Farm Tours – Visitors can tour ex-FARC-run cacao farms, learning about the cultivation process, tasting artisanal chocolate, and directly supporting farmers through product purchases. • Community-Led Experiences – Former combatants are now offering guided storytelling experiences, sharing their personal journeys from guerrilla life to farming. • Chocolate-Making Workshops – Hands-on workshops allow travellers to engage with the production process, deepening their appreciation for the craft while contributing to the local economy.
As someone who has seen Colombia both at its most dangerous and its most hopeful, I find it incredible that regions once known for conflict are now inviting travellers in with open arms. When I first visited, people were just trying to survive. Now, they are building a future.
Challenges and Successes
Transitioning from coca to cacao is not without difficulties. Cacao trees take several years to produce profitable yields, while coca offers fast financial returns, making the switch economically risky in the short term. Additionally, remote regions still face security threats from dissident groups and drug traffickers who oppose coca eradication efforts.
However, success stories are emerging. Ex-FARC members now run cooperatives that produce premium cacao, some of which has gained international recognition for its quality. Brands like “Chocolate de la Paz” (Peace Chocolate) are directly linked to former combatants who have embraced agriculture as a path forward. And with an increasing number of tourists visiting these areas, cacao farmers are finding new revenue streams beyond just selling their beans.
A Symbol of Peace, Powered by Tourism
When I first came to Colombia, peace felt like a distant hope. Now, more than two decades later, the transformation is undeniable. While challenges remain, initiatives like Coca to Cacao are proving that economic reinvention is possible, and that tourism can be a force for good.
For many ex-FARC fighters, growing cacao is not just about income. It is about rebuilding trust, gaining dignity, and proving that transformation is possible. Through sustainable tourism, travellers can play an active role in this process, turning their trips into acts of support for peace and progress.
In Colombia, chocolate is more than a sweet treat. It is a symbol of hope.